SUPERNon-Seal-ketju 520DZ2 kulta ja musta [Crimp (ZJ) -liitos mu

[How is it used?
Vehicle used:D Tracker
Driving applications:Off-road, Enduro race
Duration of use:5 runs (about 12 hours)
This product was used when D Tracker was converted to KLX.
ChainMaintenance (Refueling) is per run.

Was the one you received as per Image?
The color of Gold and Black is Large and looks good and satisfactory.

Was the installation difficult?
Since this product is a clip joint, there is no need to crimp or press-fit the joint, making installation easy.
However, the ground needs to be cured as it is coated with Grease.
If they come in contact with the ground, Garbage will stick to them and the ground will be dirty.

How was your experience with it?
DID's RaceChain 520ERT2 and 520VT2 (Driving application:Motard race, Touring) The following are comparative impressions with
Product weight
DZ2=ERT2<VT2
VT2 would also be on the thinner side of the Seal chain, but it was no match for the Non-seal Chain.

・Friction
DZ2=ERT2<VT2
VT2 also had less Friction in the seal chain, but was no match for the non-seal chain.
The difference between DZ2 and ERT2 was not that great.

Life span
DZ2<ERT2<VT2
This is a guess, but ERT2 seemed to still be usable even after 2 Season of use. DZ2 was also not stretched after one Enduro race.
Plating was as good as each of them.

Peace of mind in Touring
DZ2=ERT2<VT2
Seal chain has an overwhelming advantage. However, no matter how hard we drove, the Non-seal Chain's Clip never blew up.


In addition, the above ERT2 (Non-seal Chain dedicated to Motocross) and VT2 (Seal chain for MOTARD and Enduro race) are replaced by DID's Lineup, respectively, but I assume that there is no Large difference from the above impresario in terms of Friction.

This product, DZ2, is for those who want to enjoy off-road driving in a cost-effective manner. We felt that the DZ2 is suited for the use for "Off-road driving with a good cost performance.

[Included Parts:were they on?
Clip joint

[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None

[Maintenance hang].
Non-seal chains have the merit that they can be removed and washed with washing oil, so they can be washed very beautifully if only the waste oil disposal method is carefully considered and implemented.
After washing and drying, be sure to lubricate.

Lubrication should be done after each run whenever possible to extend the life of the chain.
Chain lube for Off-Road or lubricant for CRE556etc. (Although the splattering is great.) can be used to relatively reduce the adhesion of mud and sand.

I have been using Seal chain, but this is the first time I have tried to use Non-Seal.

I was surprised by the lightness and the smoothness of the chain's circumference.

There is some initial growth and some growth after the race, but even with that, I was surprised by the lightness and the smoothness of the drivetrain.

If you are looking for a lighter and smoother chain than the heavier but more durable Seal chain, the latter is recommended for Off riders, although it may take some time to adjust and clean the chain.

The OEM had a chain top number of 118, but I cut one off and got 117, which was just right.

It is easy to replace the clip joint without special tool. And I think the body looks cooler with the gold. I am using this product because I have a sense of security from the manufacturer DID.

We will wash the car and wash the chain every time because it is muddy after driving off-road. We also lubricate. That way, there is less friction and less elongation.
It looks bold in Gold & Black.
However, maintenance cycles such as Seal chain can be used for Friction and Elongation worsens quickly and it is difficult to perform chain maintenance often. If you're not a person who doesn't become one, I think it's just a short-lived Chain.

I ride a YZ250FX I ride less than 30 hours a year, mostly in Enduro races, Sprocket, and Chain has been replaced every two years and the cost performance has been good for the last few years I am buying this product